Friday, July 29, 2011

Groceries

Several years ago our local supermarket employees went on strike and as a union member myself I refused to cross the picket lines. The strike lasted  some weeks and I had to find a new market. I found a family run market with an excellent meat counter, complete dairy section, small processed foods section, and a superior produce section.

Despite the settlement of the strike we continue to shop at this small market.  The prices for produce are great and most importantly the fruits and vegetables are fresh and flavorful.  It's hard to get a bad piece of produce there. Many produce items like green beans and corn are locally grown. Their meat may cost a little more but it's always tender and I can get precisely the cut and amount of meat I want.

So that's where we usually shop.  Great food, good prices, and a small store.  Upon returning from vacation  I needed groceries so I headed to my local supermarket because it was close and I was jet-lagged. Of course it's huge and I spent a lot of extra time searching for what I needed.  This store now has a section dedicated to cookware, magazines, and other non-food items. Really, they think I'm going to buy pots and pans at the grocery store?  When I got to the cashier with my meat, produce, milk, and 1 toothbrush the grand total was $187! This for two people! Then I gave the cashier my "Ralph's Card" number.  The machine did its work and miraculously reduced my bill to $146 (still too much since I only had 1 taxable item and 2 meat items).

This is one reason I rarely shop there: the price is not the price. One price for cardholders, another for non-cardholders. What is that about?  Of course all thinking people know it's about food manufacturers tracking your buying habits.  Every time you swipe your card big business puts your data into its system.  Think about it: food processors, advertisers, distributors, the grocery store itself, they all want to know what you're buying.

So what is the real price of groceries? I don't know. I think they mark items artificially high so cardholders will think they're getting a deal by having a card. Look you can say, I saved $1000 today just by swiping my card!!  Shoppers can feel good about their local supermarket because every time they go they're saving money! But they're not really saving money because the quality is inferior and the price is artificially high designed to give you a warm glow and make you feel smart 'cause you have a card.

The results of my run to my local supermarket are that so far I've had to throw out a bag of watercress because it was too bitter to eat and the nectarines I bought are tasteless.  The cherries also leave something to be desired.  To be fair I did buy a nice piece of wild-caught sockeye salmon there that was delicious. But that doesn't negate the fact that the rest of my purchase was over priced and of low quality.

If we really want to get down to brass tacks, I don't want to be part of the many databases to which that damn card attaches me.  I also want good food at reasonable prices. AND I want the price of an item to be the price, not some inflated number designed to trick me into shopping at a particular store.

Musically yours, Munich

We drove through the Black Forest from Baden Baden to get to Munich and as I wrote before, Munich is in large part a dreary post war city erected in haste.  Blocks and blocks of six story buildings painted institutional greens and yellows greeted us.  It felt grim and serious, how I imagine North Korea to be. A real contrast to the gorgeous forest and cheery Baden Baden from whence we had come.

The old city center is a different world. Cobblestones pave streets lined with shops and restored buildings. A thriving farmer's market lies adjacent to Marienplatz, the central pedestrian square.  An enormous scary looking blackened building in the baroque style houses the Ratshaus (city hall) and overlooks the "platz".  It looks like nothing so much as a Tim Burton creation. It has a beautifully restored colorful Glockenspiel that rings out several times during the day and looks oddly out of place in the blackened structure.  There is a beautiful fountain in the square and people are gathered there all day and into the night.  Although it must be said that Munich like other Germanic cities goes to bed early.  They eat early, take a walk and retire. At night the fairies come out and wipe the square clean of the detritus of the day. Nice.

The most amazing thing about Munich while we were there were the street musicians.  On the sidewalk in front of a church a trio of young women with violins played classical music in perfect harmony.  It was impossible to just walk by. A musical oasis in the midst of throngs of people, bikes, and cars.

Walking further into the square we came upon a quintet of musicians playing more classical music.  Mozart probably, since he's "the man" in this part of the world.  The group had a baby grand piano, a cello, a bass, a violin, and a woodwind (I don't remember which one). They were out on more than one day.  How they got the piano out there was a mystery. Needless to say they attracted quite a crowd. Another oasis of beauty and calm in the bustle of the city.

Munich also seems to be THE place to go for a stag parties in Europe.  Groomsmen dress in traditional Bavarian shorts and suspenders and the groom wears a dress and they all cavort drunkenly from beer hall to beer hall including passersby in their revelry.  Bridesmaids and brides also appear in groups shrieking and laughing. Must be the beer.

But Munich has an ugly side that I rarely see in California.  There are many Muslim women in Munich dressed in full black burkhas.  Whether on vacation or living there, I don't know. But returning from a restaurant one night we saw a group of young men (not boys) dressed in leiderhosen approach and heckle a group of women after they had shouted insults at two men dressed like Arafat. I'm sure beer had a lot to do with it, but it was ugly nonetheless. Sadly, the two middle eastern men ignored the taunting of the women and simply walked on while the women huddled together for security. The men posed no physical threat since they didn't stop and approach the women but I'm sure the women felt threatened.

On a lighter note, there you have it, the good, the bad, and the musical.  Mostly good I'd say. Our city guide was wonderful and we learned a lot about the history of Munich and Bavaria which I always love.  We dined at the world famous HofBrau Haus and joined the crowds for a bit of musical heaven on earth.

Tuesday, July 26, 2011

Pedestrian Perils

New York City, Los Angeles, London, Rome, take your pick, crossing streets in these cities takes guts.  But no guts, no glory my dad always said.  In these cities walkers wait until the traffic clears to cross the street.  If that happens to be on the walk sign, all the better. But stepping out against the signal is expected and everyone learns to be quick.  If you've been in New York City you've no doubt seen what appear to be frail grannies come to life to race across the street. In London, city planners are so nice they put arrows on the street telling visitors which way to look. Didn't matter, I still looked the wrong way.  But I also crossed against the light if no traffic was visible. Everyone does it. We're in a hurry, we can't wait for interminable traffic lights if there's a break in the action.

Well, not everyone.  In Germany, Switzerland, and Austria one most certainly does not cross until the light turns green.  We had the advantage of a guide who lived for 10 years in Bavarian Germany and warned us of the costly ticket involved in crossing against the light.  I have to say I didn't really believe it but it's true.  In these countries pedestrians do not cross until the light says so.  No matter how anti-establishment some appear to be with ripped stockings, piercings, and tattoos, they all wait for the light no matter how long it takes.  Sometimes it takes a LONG time. But we wait dammit!

In addition, bicycles have the right of way in Germany so watch out for bikes in market squares, in small alleys or anywhere at all.  A cyclist hit and injured our guide, Tara, when she lived in Germany and it was basically her fault for not being careful enough.  And there are loads of bicycles everywhere.  They're speeding around corners, cruising through town, and tethered to any light post.  The heaps of bikes chained up to light posts were amazing.  They would lay there like the dead, just dumped one on top of the other.  I wondered if at one time they were all standing up alertly waiting for their rider or if said rider just threw down the bike on the pile and attached a lock. And how would you get your bike out if it was on the bottom of the tangle? It's a mystery.  It takes some vigilance to avoid bikes in Germany 'cause they're not looking out for you.

 As a Californian who assumes that the minute I leave my car and  start walking I'm in the right, it pays to find about local customs. If you have no guide, take your cues from all those people standing patiently on the sidewalk while an empty street begs to be crossed, wait for the light!

European Vacation

A simple travelogue did not seem like the way to continue writing about Europe especially since I am home, until I read my previous posts. There are some places that cannot be ignored.  The Alps cry out for more description than I can write.  While there we saw Switzerland's tallest waterfall, right at the cable car station in Lauterbrunen.  The valley of the Eiger, Monch, and Jungfrau peaks looks like a model train layout out without the tracks.  It's so perfectly laid out, green grass, dark wooden roofs, windy roads and a rushing stream nearby. All framed by jagged snow capped peaks. Perfection.

Except for the Swiss people. Not the friendliest sort.  Our hotelier was Scottish so he was hoot. But the Swiss, not so much.  We ate lunch in a local restaurant with 4 other tables filled with people.  Not a word amongst them.  Our party of 4 made the only conversation in the place. No real interest in selling souvenirs either. No worries on that score, I waited for the world's most expensive chocolate in Vienna.

But they are a hardy and self-sufficient sort.  Every house had a garden full of vegetables and flowers. The streets in Murren where we stayed were narrow with no cars.  It was so small a car would do you no good. Murren was one of the only places we stayed that did not have cobblestone streets.  I didn't realize how nice that was until I'd spent nearly 13 days walking on cobblestones.

While in the Alps we visited Trummelbach Falls.  I've given you the YouTube website below if you want to have a look.  These falls corkscrew through a mountain at an incredible rate. They are glacier run-off so it's cold in the mountain.  A previous owner of the mountain built stairs and landings next to the falls so others could enjoy them. What a great guy!  It's now a UNESCO World Heritage Site I think.  It was awesome in the true sense of the word.  These falls are wild raw power.  I couldn't contain my exhilaration climbing up and down the wet stairs.  Water seeps continuously out of all the granite walls and spray from the falls keeps everything wet. The inside of the mountain is lit by strategically placed electric lights so you can see the force of the water surging around rock made smooth by millions of years of sanding.

My advice to all, see the Alps. Rain, fog, or sun it's always a great day in the Alps.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rMKSbi43d38

Sunday, July 17, 2011

Schnitzel and Beer

First let me say that writing on an iPad is difficult so if I misspell words or leave some out don't rush to criticize. Secondly, I am astonished to be sitting here in Salzburg, Austria having just finished a meal of broccoli soup, wiener schnitzel, and potatoes. Every American should be required to travel, I think they would lose their sense of superiority. Here the lakes are clean, the streets are swept free of debris, and public transportation is easy. Everyone has health care, the roads are maintained, and it is important for people to have relaxation. So important you can get a prescription to go to a spa for a week! My kind of culture!

We spent a day and a half in Munich before traveling on to Salzburg. We went to the castle Disney modeled his Cinderella castle after. Built by king Ludwig II of Bavaria it was a mass of tourists and ate up half a day for a 30 minute tour. I'd take a picture of it from the bottom and ride the luge lots more times.

Apparently the Germans and others have these luge parks all over, some better than others. This one pulled you and your luge up a hill and then let you go to race down the steel switchbacks as fast as you could go. Pull back on the handle to brake, forward to go. Just like being 8 again. Two times was not enough!

I could go on about Munich but it needs it's own page. Loved and hated it. It's a young city with a diverse population and a conservative bent. Much of it is drab, spare, and colorless. But I have to remember that most of it was destroyed in the war and buildings had to go up fast to house the 300,000 homeless people living there after the liberation. The old (restored) parts of the city are fascinating and beautiful. I learned a lot about art at the world's first art gallery and some about architecture gazing at churches and city buildings.

So before I go I have to say; yes I've drunk lots of beer, had dinner at the Hofbrau Haus served by a typical buxom Fraulein, and paid to use the toilet everywhere we've been. The scenery has been spectacular, the food wonderfully fattening (I feel like a thanksgiving turkey being fattened up for the feast). The others on our tour are intelligent, friendly, interesting, and fun to be around. We are the second oldest people on the tour. Two Texas gals are our elders at 70.

Mein Gott I better stop meandering all over the place. Next time I'll try to get some kind of organization in place but for now..

Our windows open to the fresh night air bringing the sound of rain on rooftops into the room, I can barely believe I'm lucky enough to be here.

Wednesday, July 13, 2011

July in the Swiss Alps

It's 4 o'clock in Murren and it has been raining all day. We started this trip at 9 am thinking that the weather was clearing. After a two hour trip up cable cars and cogwheel trains we reached the trail head for Kleine Scheidegg. It was gray, cold and drizzly but beautiful. The gray sky emphasized the true green of the valley and the white glaciers spreading down from the Eiger. Wildflowers of yellow, blue, and white bloom in profusion. Down in the valleys small "hay huts" blend in with the ancient feeling of the empty mountains. When the air is just right you can hear the distant ringing of cow bells. Even though jagged peaks surrounded me, I felt as if I was on top of the world.

Not too long after we started a relatively easy hike it started to sprinkle. Towards the end it began to rain in earnest. We carried an umbrella (I have never hiked with an umbrella before, not the easiest thing to do) but walked in light wind breakers and mesh running shoes. Cold! By the time we arrived at Kleine Scheidegg we were soaked: shoes, socks, pants, the works. We took another cog train down to a another town and got off to eat lunch. More yummy food including rosti (hash browned potatoes covered with swiss cheese and in this case ham, mushrooms and onions)the national dish of the Swiss. Desert was apple strudel in warm vanilla custard with ice cream and whipped cream. Plenty of calories for several walks!

Another wet walk to the cable station and a transfer to the cogwheel train to get back up to Murren. By this time it was pouring so the walk to Hotel Jungfrau was even colder. My jeans are now hanging on the towel heater in the bathroom and my wet shoes are sitting upside down on a rack above the heater.

I wouldn't have missed the walk, the views were spectacular. We could see the Eiger, the Monk, and the Jungfrau, the highest peaks in the area. We saw several black salamanders enjoying the rain. But now my only pair of closed toed shoes are soaked as are my jeans and jacket. I packed what Rick Steves advised and so did not pack enough pairs of shoes. Everyone coming into the Alps should be advised to bring some hiking shoes if not for the rain then for the rocky trails.

Coming back on the train we all agreed we felt like the end of a day of skiing, tired, wet, and cold. Wonderful!

Tuesday, July 12, 2011

The Alps

Finally I have a good Internet connection! We are in Murren in the Swiss alps. We can see glaciers from our small balcony. Weather has derailed our hike farther up the mountain but we're going back down in the cable car to visit a giant waterfall. It is truly spectacular up here. Very serene and green. We came from Baden Baden yesterday and from Trier the day before. It is my favorite place so far.

As I sit here in the lounge, plans may change again since the weather is changing as I write. I had no idea the Alps would be so spectacular. We are here for three days before going on to Munich.

Transportation here is so interesting. Cable cars, funiculars, trains. Lots of ways to get up the mountains in the summer. There are sheep and cows on the hillsides. Walking up to the hotel we heard the cow bells up the mountain. Each bell has a different tone and farmers know each cow's tone. The bells are giant and expensive since each cow has to have a different tone.

So far we have taken the baths at Baden Baden and seen the Medieval city of Trier. We've toured a farm house from 1610 at an open air museum. We saw a real working mill from that same time. We always think we're so slick in this century but the milling machine was so creative and hand built! I don't think that anyone today could make such a machine.

Going with a tour has been a mixed bag. Lots of waiting but no worrying about logistics. Great people from all over the US from 13 to 71. All the food has been fabulous, great wine in the Mosel Valley and last night cheese fondue, yummy!

More later, if I'm not too exhausted. My jet lag lasted for days. It's either age or the amount of time it took us to get to Trier.

Auf wiedersehn,

Sunday, July 3, 2011

Warning: Not For the Squeamish

This morning I washed a nectarine to cut up for my breakfast. I put it under the tap, got it wet, and dried it on my kitchen towel.  As I was washing it, it occurred to me that tap water wouldn't really remove GERMS. Imagine how many people have handled a piece of fruit: the person who picked it, the person who packed it, the market employee who unpacked it and any other shoppers who picked it up and put it down again. Yikes, that sounds like I should have washed it with rubbing alcohol!

The problem here is not germ ridden fruit. The problem is the cleaning industry's efforts to convince us that every surface is contaminated with dangerous bacteria and GERMS. Long ago, when I was growing up, Mr. Clean was one of a few products advertised as the antidote to dirt. Now the amount of products available to keep us from coming into contact with dirt and germs is staggering. Are we healthier now that hand sanitizers, kitchen counter sanitizers, and bathroom sanitizers crowd our cupboards? I think not.

The soap industry has instilled a false and irrational fear of germs and bacteria into the American public's psyche in order to sell cleaning products. For thousands of years humans have touched, ingested, and breathed in germs and bacteria and earth's population has continued to grow. All over the world people and bacteria live together with no significant side effects. Sure, some bacteria are definitely harmful but neither you nor I are likely to encounter them in our homes, at the market, or at the mall.

So I sliced and ate my nectarine, blissfully enjoying it's juicy sweetness.

Saturday, July 2, 2011

Have Technology Will Travel

Well, we've got the packing list for our European trip. We're traveling light for 17 days:  2 carry-on suitcases and 2 under seat carry-ons.  But this kind of packing is not new to anyone who doesn't trust airlines to keep your luggage safe from thieves or to get it to your destination after 2 flight changes. We've been traveling like this for years because not only do we not trust the airlines to take care of our luggage but we really and truly hate waiting at the baggage claim.

What's new for us is all the technology we're taking. I think we may need a carry-on just for USB cables and chargers. We also need a large, heavy duty converter because my teeny tiny hair dryer blows a great 800 watts which will fry lesser converters.  On the plus side, all 3 of the countries we're traveling to have the same electrical systems.  Europe as a whole though, is an electrical mess requiring a plethora of converters.  Is there a good reason they can't all run the same current? Europe is so small it would be like needing a converter going from California to Colorado. Wouldn't that be fun?

 I shouldn't make fun of Europe given that we're still using inches and feet instead of centimeters and meters. Every year while teaching metric measurement, I try to  explain to my students why the rest of the world uses a really simple system of measures based on multiples of 10, and we're stuck with measures using multiples of 12 (inches, feet, yards, miles), 16 (ounces, pounds), and 8 (ounces, cups, pints, quarts, and gallons).  We need a converter or a calculator for measuring more than Europeans need them for electrical appliances.

As usual, I'm taking a really long bird walk away from  traveling with technology. Let's get to it.  First I HAVE to take my iPod to listen to books on the plane.  It's much easier to just listen than to wear out my eyes trying to read in the dry air of the plane.  The other advantage is that it puts me to sleep, a good thing on flights over 2 hours.  So I pack my iPod, earphones, and charger because we're going to be gone longer than the battery lasts.

Additionally, we're both taking Kindles because we like to read text and even paperbacks take up lots of room in a suitcase. Our Kindles will not require cables thanks to the manufacturer which created a battery that lasts a month.  The big pressure is on to download some fast-paced, summer trash reading before we go.

The biggest news is that I bought an iPad so I can blog while I'm  traveling (a suggestion from a friend who supports my blogs, thanks Lynn). You may think this is an extravagance but there are other uses like email, maps, weather, and flight information. Of course I need to take a cable to charge it AND  a special cord to plug into my camera so I can download photos as I go.  Speaking of cameras, we're taking an extra battery, a charger and 2 SD cards because I plan on taking a huge amount of pictures. So, if you feel like it, look for my blogs and pictures from Germany, Austria and Switzerland.  I'm crossing my fingers that I'll be able to figure it all out without my technology guru, Brian.

Finally, my inventory of electronic devices with cords and chargers includes an iPod, iPad, 2 Kindles, and a camera. Oh, and my hair dryer, one of THE MOST CRITICAL appliances in my bag. I do want pictures of me to look reasonable after all. Let's face it, bad hair equals bad pictures. Oops, almost forgot the converter, the device without which all other devices are potentially useless.

Now that I have all my electronics squared away, I better get busy on my wardrobe.  I have a  list... but... I might want a few more choices than are suggested...hmmm

Friday, July 1, 2011

Potholes Redux

Here's my latest gripe about where I live.  Patching potholes.  Does anyone really know how to do it? No one working around here knows the meaning of level. Driving down a street near my house is like driving on a dirt road.  The large mounds of new asphalt are anything but level.  I steer to the right and with my right tires on the bike lane stripe I can straddle the patches and have a moderately smooth ride.

In patching the street instead of actually repairing it the city made speed bumps out of potholes.  One was concave, the other is convex. There's really no difference in the ride. In fact the patches are bigger than the potholes so it's actually worse. It's so bad I'm sure it will eventually ruin my suspension.  But there is no hotline to report bad street repairs only to report potholes. I can't imagine what "they" were thinking when they finished the repairs.  Someone must have looked at the repairs and said, "Yup, them's fixed." Unfortunately, that same someone forgot to go over the fixes with that machine flattens asphalt.  My engineer would know what it's called, I don't, but I've seen it.

There are a few streets, marked by signs, that were truly repaired with "stimulus monies" and they are a pleasure to drive on. Smooth, quiet creating an almost spiritual experience in your car.  Needless to say I try to drive on those regularly.

And then there's the odd new asphalt laid down in long patches in my area.  It looks like they had some leftover from another job and needed a place to put it so they put down 100 feet here and there.  There is no method to their madness.  They could pour down one length and come back to the same place and extend it. No, they pick another random thoroughfare and lay down another 100 feet.  What's with that? Imagine if they just extended the same section until the whole lane was redone!  No, I'm sorry, that would be way too efficient.

On our trip through German, Austria, and Switzerland we'll be cruising those wonderful roads we heard about.  Maybe we can bring back the name of their contractor, 'cause this city sure needs another one.